Before we get into troubleshooting the pesky menace let’s look over what it is.

What is String Algae?

String algae is a form of filamentous algae, a simple aquatic plant, with the most common being Spirogyra and Cladophora. Easy to recognize because it grows in mats usually in shallow, full sun locations. It is not harmful to your fish or the ecosystem, but can begin to choke out marginal and aquatic plants if not kept in check. Now this is important to my next point.

It is a symptom of a nutrient imbalance, most commonly excess phosphorous, so just removing it will not solve the issue of its growth. Generally it is to be expected, and in some cases, we build ponds with areas to encourage and control its growth such as a wetland filter. You can remove it by hand, but before you go about creating more work for yourself and chasing your tail lets look at possible causes.

Spring String Algae Culprits

Lets look at the variables that cause the nutrient imbalance, and find some simple troubleshooting techniques to cross them off the list.

1. Excess Water Loss.

If your pond has an autofill, and you have kept it running during the winter, there might be a simple leak in your waterfall or pond edge that is causing water to leave the closed system and be constantly replaced with new city or well water. This is a problem for many reasons, but lets focus on the nutrient imbalance. During the winter time the bacteria and aquatic meiofauna in your filter is dormant, and not working at optimum efficiency. So if we are constantly adding new, unfiltered water, there is a chance we are introducing nutrient rich water to your closed ecosystem. In addition to a low liner edge in your waterfall or pond edge look for wicking. Wicking is when there is soil or fabric touching the water and allowing the water in the pond to soak into the landscape. This is a capillary event that can allow a lot of water to escape the system.

2. Rainfall Runoff

Another culprit for your nutrient imbalance that is common is excess runoff from rain events dumping into the pond. With rainfall you can expect soil and other nutrients to be pushed into your closed ecosystem. Berming the edges of your pond and managing this runoff is crucial to preventing this variable from disrupting this balance. Otherwise if your neighbor treats their grass with fertilizer, and it rains, that can be running into your pond.

3. Overcrowding/ Overfeeding

Sometimes we get too carried away with our fish purchases, or they all fall madly in love and create countless generations. Unfortunately, there isn’t enough room for everyone. Of course this is dependent upon the size of the pond and the filtration and can only be addressed on a case by case basis. Fish produce ammonia and nitrogenous waste that is generally broken down by bacteria and aquatic meiofauna. As discussed above those critters are dormant, so overcrowding is more prevalent during the cooler months and into the spring. Overfeeding only increases this issue as those nutrients become trapped inside the pond and during the winter are only feeding excess algae.

4. Inadequate Biological Filtration

Overcrowding and overfeeding can be alleviated by upgrading your biological filtration. You can follow manufacturers recommendations, but generally I cut those recommendations in half. For example, Aquascape recommends the BioFalls 6000 for ponds up to 6000 gallons. I cut that in half, and recommend the 6000 for a 3000 gallon pond. This allows buffer room and reduces boom and bust cycles throughout the season. Maybe your biological filtration follows these guidelines, and we need to look at your mechanical filtration, circulation, and aeration requirements. Again this is a case by case basis.

5. Excess Debris

Into the next form of filtration, mechanical filtration. This is your simple skimmer, or if you have a larger pond, an intake bay. Generally when leaves fall into the pond they become waterlogged and sink to the bottom. They then decay and release nutrients into the water column. We want to limit this variable as much as possible. This is why the design of your pond is so important. We want the pond to be able to circulate water in such a way that any falling debris is quickly pushed to a skimming area where it can be removed. Of course no design is perfect. There will undoubtable be ‘dead areas’ where even circulation jets fail to pull everything towards the skimmer.

String Algae Solutions

Now we know what string algae is, what causes it, and a few troubleshooting steps to limiting the variables. Lets explore some proactive steps you can take on top of what we have learned already.

1. Spring Clean Out

This is the simplest and almost always necessary step even if you don’t have string algae. Removing leaf debris, decayed aquatic plants, and excess detritus is the simplest way to preventing nutrients from feeding string algae.

2. Aquatic, Marginal, and Floating Plants

Adding plants is the easiest way to reduce the amount of nutrients in the water column. We call this ‘competitive exclusion.’ The beautiful plants you want consume all of the nutrients and leave nothing left for not only string algae, but also floating algae.

3. Bacteria

Keeping a strict regiment of adding beneficial bacteria is essential to seeding your biological filtration with the right enzymes to encourage we get the most efficient strains of nitrifying bacteria thriving in your pond. Adding an autodoser makes this task automatic and ensures you never forget another treatment.

4. Sunlight Exclusion

Another technique we can employ is straight up starving the pond from sunlight. This can be achieved in many ways, from encouraging floating plants like lillies, hyacinth, and water lettuce, to planting bushes and trees to shade the pond, shade cloth, or even hardscape elements such as pergolas or gazebos with new seating areas. Generally this is best done with the pond design in mind, but can be incorporated after.
Now that you have the majority of the causes and troubleshooting techniques I hope you can execute and help alleviate that pesky weed so that you and your family can continue to enjoy your aquatic paradise.

If you are interested in getting professional help with your algae woes, or you are interested in building a pond the right way and circumvent these issues from happening to your future pond plans give me a shout and fill out the contact form.

Water Feature Planning: Where Vision Meets Reality

Planning is the bridge between dreaming and doing. Once we understand what you want from your water feature, the next step is to look at your outdoor space and budget. By evaluating these factors, we can recommend options that work for you.

Looking at Your Space

Every backyard is different, and understanding the layout of yours will help us design something perfect. Here are some things we’ll consider:

Size, Shape of Your Yard, and Access: A large yard might be great for a recreation pond, while a smaller space could work well for a fountainscape or pondless waterfall.
Natural Features: Do you have slopes, trees, or other elements that could be used to enhance the design?
Home and Landscape Connection: How close should the water feature be to your home, patio, or garden to maximize its impact?

For example, if you have an intense slope facing the home with minimal access, an ecosystem pond will not be a practical addition. Check out this video for inspiration in this example. Most ponds need space and larger boulders to appear natural.

On the other hand, if you have a large yard, you should not place a small pond in the back corner of the yard where you will not be able to see it unless you walk back towards it (which you won’t).

Water Feature Designs For Your Budget

Your budget plays a big role in what’s possible, but there are beautiful options for every price range. We’ll help you make the most of your investment by explaining the costs of different water features. Here are some examples:

Koi Ponds and Recreation Ponds: These are often larger and more complex, making them great for bigger budgets. Our Koi Lagoon Series (14′ long x 10′ wide x 2′ deep) start at around $20,000. Our Wilderness Oasis Series (20′ long x 14′ wide x 2′ deep) start at just over $40,000. And Recreation Ponds start at around $70,000.

Pondless Waterfalls: A cost effective option with mid-range pricing compared to Ecosystem Ponds. Starting with the Cascade Spring package ( about a 5′ stream) starts at $6,500. Our most popular Pondless Waterfall Package is the Cascade Falls Deluxe (16′ Stream up to 2′ high) starts at $20,000. This can go up to our Rogue River Series ( 30′ Stream up to 3′ high) starting at $50,000. Check out all of these packages here.

Fountainscapes: Perfect for smaller spaces and tighter budgets, these features add charm without breaking the bank. A single stand alone fountain starts at $4,500. We have multiple fountain packages as well. Check them out here.
Blending Options for Custom Water Feature Designs

If you’re looking for something truly unique, we can combine different types of water features. For example:

A koi pond with a long, meandering stream and waterfall.
A negative edge waterfall with sunken fire pit.
Interactive deep streams with fountain elements throughout.
Fountainscapes in the headwaters of a pondless waterfall.
Wide, but gentle waterfalls on a slope.

We can incorporate bridges, paths, flagstone patios, raised berms, wetland watergardens, and much more into your design.

Check out our YouTube for inspiration with your project.

Why Planning is Essential

Taking the time to plan your water feature ensures it fits your outdoor space perfectly and doesn’t strain your budget. A well-planned design also makes installation smoother and results in a feature you’ll love for years to come. At Seeds of Nature Watergardens, we’re committed to helping homeowners in Eugene, Medford, Ashland, and Grants Pass turn their dreams into reality.

Looking Ahead

Once we’ve matched your vision with your space and budget, it’s time to move into the creative part of the process: detailed design. In Part 3 of this series, we’ll talk about choosing the perfect location, angles, and design details to make your water feature truly shine.

If you’re ready to start planning your water feature, contact us today for a consultation. Whether you’re dreaming of a koi pond, waterfall, or fountainscape, we’re here to help you bring your ideas to life in Southern Oregon.

Creating the perfect water feature starts with understanding one key thing: you. At Seeds of Nature Watergardens, we know the best outdoor spaces are personal and fit your lifestyle. That’s why the first step in the water feature design process is learning about your needs, wants, and preferences. Whether you live in Eugene, Medford, Ashland, or Grants Pass, we’re here to help create a water feature that’s just right for you.

How to Plan a Water Feature That Fits Your Life

Before we draw any plans or pick out materials, we need to know what you want in your water feature. Do you imagine a peaceful koi pond, a splashing waterfall, or a playful fountain? Understanding your vision is the first step to creating a feature you’ll love.

What Are Your Interests?

Your hobbies and preferences help shape your water feature. Think about these questions:

• Have you had a water feature or kept fish before? What did you enjoy about it?
• Are you a gardener looking to expand into aquatic plants?
• Do you prefer a certain style, like a natural pond or a modern fountain?
• Is there something about water or nature that feels special to you?
• Do you enjoy hiking? Is there a scene you are looking to recreate?

By sharing these ideas, we can design a feature that truly reflects you.

For example, if you have absolutely no desire in owning or caring for fish it would not make much sense to pitch you a koi pond. Conversely, if you absolutely love fish, then it would not make much sense in pitching you a fountainscape or pondless waterfall.

What Does Your Family Need?

Water features aren’t just for looks. They can make your outdoor space better for everyone. Think about how your family might use the space:

• Kids: Would you like shallow areas for kids to play, with interactive jumping stones for them to play?
• Pets: Do you need a pet-friendly design with safe, easy access for your animals?
• Guests: If you often have visitors, your water feature can be a fun or relaxing centerpiece for gatherings.

For example, designing a space to host 20 people does not make sense if you do not enjoy hosting. Designing a recreation pond to be 7 feet deep is impractical when most people spend the majority of the time in 3 feet of water.

How Do You Use Your Space Now?

Your outdoor space is unique. By looking at how you use it now, we can create a water feature that fits perfectly. Ask yourself:

• Is your yard a place for relaxing, gardening, or entertaining?
• Are there spots in your yard that could use a makeover?
• How do you imagine moving through your space when the water feature is finished?

These answers will guide us in designing something that works for your lifestyle. 10 out of 10 times a water feature will make more use of a space than previously.

But it would be impractical to design a feature that takes up the space of where your grill currently sits, or where you plan to have a vegetable garden.

Why It’s Important to Start Here

Taking the time to figure out what you need and want means your water feature will be more than just decoration. It will be part of your home and something you enjoy every day. With our water feature design expertise, we’ll make sure it’s something that brings you happiness for years to come.

It might sound redundant and obvious, but this is the basis for how we design your water feature.

What’s Next?

Once we understand your vision, we’ll move to the next step: looking at your outdoor space in depth and budget.

Once we have a deep understanding of your vision, we’re ready to move to the next step: aligning your dreams with the realities of your outdoor space and budget. In Part 2 of this series, we’ll explore the different types of water features—from koi ponds to fountainscapes—and how to choose the one that’s right for you.

Stay tuned as we continue this journey to transform your outdoor space into a masterpiece. If you’re ready to begin planning your own water feature, contact us today for a personalized consultation. Whether you’re in Eugene, Medford, Ashland, or Grants Pass, let’s bring your dream to life!

Are you looking to design a swim pond in Southern Oregon? Look no further, I am Oregon’s premier swim pond builder with extensive design training based on limnological (fresh water ecosystems) science. I design everything in house without the need for consultation from outside sources because I understand the science and methodologies comprehensively. I guarantee to deliver a low-maintenance, functioning, long lasting, and remarkably beautiful feature.

Check out my recreational pond packages here.

Swim Pond Design

Where to put my swim pond

Like a swimming pool, your natural swim pond needs to be the center of your outdoor living space. This means bringing the feature close to the home so that it is easy access and also viewable from adjacent windows. You will likely want to spend your spring and summer out by the pond, but what about fall and summer? Views from inside are more important. Imagine waking up, pouring your first cup of coffee, and looking out your kitchen window at a magnificent waterfall adorned by the seasonal birds that use your pond as a pit stop mid migration.

How large should I make my swim pond?

Budget aside, your swim pond will need a constructed wetland filter as well as an intake bay skimmer. These will be adjacent to the pond but will take up space, and need to be accounted for.

The wetland filter is sized at minimum 30% of surface area. For example if you have a 30′ x 20′ pond, the surface area is 600′. This means you need a minimum 180′ (15′ x 12′) constructed wetland filter. This can be reduced slightly if a longer stream connects the two, but the rule of thumb is 30%. And the intake bay skimmer size is dependent upon the total GPH of pump volume you will be using. On average you can expect an additional 9′ x 8′ intake bay.

As you can see this is beginning to eat up quite a lot of space. And you cannot just put the two together because they are designed to function like a mini glacial river system. You can read more about filtration, circulation, and aeration here.

How to build a swim pond

It is always cheaper to build it right the first time than to add on or rebuild later. I cannot tell you how many times I have had clients reach out for help after they have tried to diy or hire an inexperienced contractor to build their pond. If you are handy, have a scientific mind, and would like to tackle this yourself I provide design and consultation services. I also recommend purchasing the aquascape university courses from their website. This will give you more information than 90% of contractors or youtube videos will ever provide.

If you want a no hassle, next level recreational swim pond built by an award winning artist, or design and consultation services, contact me and I will be in touch.

What is a Wetland?

An Aquascape constructed wetland filter is an advanced filtration system that copies the natural wetland formula from nature with added technological advancements for ease of maintenance. Essentially it is a large pit in the ground with a snorkel and centipede at the base. This is the cleanout access which helps to disperse the water evenly. Then a layer of small aquablox increase dispersion and allows sediments to fall out to the bottom of the chamber. From there varying levels of gravel create the spaces for bacteria and aquatic meiofauna to filter the water from nitrogenous waste. You can learn about the nitrogen cycle here. The water then passes through the top layer of gravel where aquatic plants further filter the water, and then the water returns back into the pond, ideally through a waterfall to increase oxygenation.

The main reason you would want to install a wetland over a biofalls is the increased filtration capacity. These are designed for larger bodies of water or larger biological loads. They are also refuges for aquatic plants and can be incorporated into ponds as such.

Wetland Sizing

The general rule for wetlands is minimum 15% of surface area of the pond. 30% is the ideal goal for recreational ponds, but for even larger bodies a 15% coverage rate is sufficient. For exceptional water clarity you should shoot for a 50% ratio.

For example, if you have a 40 x 20 recreational pond, the surface area of the pond is going to be around 650 sf since you multiply the area by .8 in order to account for the fact the pond is not going to be a rectangle (unless it is designed as a rectangle). So that means you will need a minimum of 200 sq ft wetland in order to cover the 30% rule. This is why we have a 20 x 12 wetland on our Oasis package.

Wetland Pitfalls

There are diy alternatives to building wetlands but we prefer to stick to official aquascape guidelines for flow rates, gravel depth and size, and construction techniques.

It is imperative to understand the flow rates for your wetland otherwise your wetland will not work efficiently. Pump sizing, plumbing, gravel depth, gravel size, and dispersement are all factors that must be considered when constructing a wetland.

If you are interested in having me build your wetland or are considering a larger pond project fill out my contact form and we can get the ball rolling.

This article is written to help homeowners and clients in Grants Pass, Medford, Ashland, Roseburg, and Eugene to avoid the pitfalls when designing a large pondless waterfall project. What is a pondless waterfall? Check out this article for the basics. There are so many poorly built features in the rogue valley and southern oregon. One of my goals is to raise the standard of construction and aesthetic so that people will finally appreciate the beauty of constructed water features.

When building a large scale feature, lets say anything larger than 16′ long, you need to understand scale, viewing angles, rock calculation and sizing, as well as dynamic head and pumping needs.

Check out this youtube video of a pondless waterfall build done in Grants Pass, Oregon.

Pondless Waterfall Location

First and foremost you need to assign a proper location for the feature. Most people have a great idea for a large scale feature. Hillsides are great starts, but if there is not a good viewing area the build will not be enjoyed. Even if you have a hill running away from a main viewing area such as a deck, patio, or back of a house, it might be beneficial to build up and create retaining walls to force the falls towards that area.

The most important factor in choosing where the waterfall will be placed is its ability to be viewed and observed. With the hillside running away example, you can create destination seating areas, but generally you want to work with what is already native and natural.

Waterfall Design

Generally most aquatic artists can not tell you what a feature will look like exactly due to the random choice in boulders and their unique inspiration during construction. This is why it is imperative to research local contractors, look at their previous work, and find an aesthetic that you find appealing.

As told in this article about building natural waterfalls, choosing appropriate sized boulders to scale the feature is imperative. With larger pondless waterfalls you need larger boulders. Building streams and waterfalls with all small rock gives a contrived and unnatural appearance. The goal should be to mimic the natural bedrock and mountainous appearance we have locally in the pacific northwest.

The rule of thumb for waterfall width to pump ratio is 1500gph per foot of weir. The weir is the opening where the water goes over the rocks. With larger features, especially when the viewing area is farther away, you need to at least double the gph to 3000gph per foot of weir. A wider weir means even larger boulders.

But just using large boulders will not suffice. You need to mix in varying sized boulders to break up the build. Smaller rock gives contrast to the larger boulders and brings the aesthetic together.

Water in Motion

When building pondless waterfalls, there is no pond to feed the waterfall. Instead, we build reservoirs which hold a minimum of twice the capacity of the stream. This is done in case power is cut to the pump. If the pump turns off then the basin will not overfill with the water in motion, and you will not need to continuously feed the basin to get the system going again.

This happens with novice builders all the time. They do not size their basins correctly and the systems are then what we call ‘top heavy.’

To properly size a basin, you need to figure out the water in motion. Water in motion is the water that is in the waterfall and the plumbing. When using larger pumps for increased head pressure and water flow, you need to be using 3″ flex line. This is because the maximum capacity of 2″ flex line is around 5000gph.

Each foot of 3″ line holds around one gallon. To figure out your waterfall reservoir needs multiply the distance of the stream by its average width, then by its average depth, and then by gallons per cubic foot which is 7.48.

For example, lets say we have a 24′ long pondless waterfall, which is average 2′ wide, with an average water depth of 3″, calculated as .25, then multiply that by 7.48. You will get about 90 gallons of water in motion. But you also need to calculate possible pooling areas as well as the flex line needed.

So with 30′ of 3″ flex (overestimate for curves) you get 30 gallons of water, add in some small pooling areas (3′ x 3′ x .5 (6″ depth) x 7.48) will get around 35 gallons per pool. Pooling areas will be determined by the slope as well as the individual contractors style. I would guess off the top of my head you will have minimum of three pooling areas for the example above. So that will be an extra 100 gallons, plus the 90 for the stream, plus the 30 for the plumbing. So 220 gallons of water in motion. This means you need a minimum 440 gallon reservoir. Depending on the sun exposure, pump needs, and slope you might need more.

These are just a few calculations and examples of potential pitfalls for large scale pondless waterfalls that your builder needs to have a firm grasp on before attempting a project of this scale.

You should also have an understanding of how to strap and move boulders effectively while protecting the liner. Many times novice builders puncture the liner and without the skills necessary to locate it, you will need to rebuild the entire feature.

If you are interested in having a large pondless waterfall built in southern oregon check out my waterfall packages.

Or fill out the contact form, include a couple photos of your space, and we will get started.

Swim ponds are the hottest outdoor living addition on trend. A return to nature has been an ongoing trend in the past decade, with an emphasis on homeopathic health remedies, organic food choices, and even landscaping.

Many people are ditching their pools for a ecologically conscious and increasingly more beautiful alternative such as recreational ponds.

Swimming Pools Vs Recreational Swimming Ponds

A typical swimming pool is characterized by its construction and filtration system. Swimming pools are generally built of concrete, preform plastic, or heavy duty liner. They use chlorinated filtration systems to create a sterile swimming environment.

Recreation ponds are typically made of rubber liner, boulders, gravel, and instead work with mother nature not against her. Utilizing biological filtration, a living ecosystem is simulated to keep the swimming area naturally filtered.

Many people are fed up with synthetic environments and are searching for a holistic approach with their home spaces. Incorporating a biologically filtered swimming pond limits exposure to chemicals for not only you, but also the native wildlife that will depend on your feature.

Recreational ponds are also enjoyable 365 days a year, because they do not need to be closed down during non-swimmable months. Waterfalls and fountains can also be run all year which increases their appeal with viewing angles indoors. Boulders and rock work are incorporated into the landscape to make it appear as if the feature is a natural spring.

Recreational Swim Pond – How?

There are a few key components with having a properly constructed swim pond. The big 3 are filtration, circulation, and aeration.

Filtration

Mechanical filtration, or the ability to remove large debris such as leaves is paramount to protecting the biological filtration. Mechanical filtration is typically characterizes as a skimmer, skim cove, or intake bay. Debris is pulled into this area so that it may be removed. Then the water that is pulled from the intake bay skimmer is then sent to the biological filter.

The biological filtration relies on bacteria and aquatic meiofauna to process nitrogenous waste such as fish waste and decaying nutrients into soluable nitrates for plants to consume. This is known as the nitrogen cycle. In our case we build constructed wetland filters that do an incredible job, integrate seamlessly into the landscape, and can be maintenanced easily without the risk of clogging like other regeneration zone systems.

Circulation

Pumps are the heart of the system. We need to draw water into the skimmer and out through the wetland for the entire system to function. But with larger bodies of water, especially those deeper than 3 feet, additional circulation is needed in order to limit dead zones and keep the water body moving. Otherwise debris can settle and create nutrient overloads when they decompose. Jet systems, similar to pools, are utilized in key areas to keep water moving and circulating towards the skimming system.

Aeration

The bacteria acting as the kidneys of the system are aerobic, meaning they need oxygen to survive. This is why adding in a waterfall, and occasionally aeration systems, are mandatory to keeping the oxygen saturation as high as possible. Circulating the water also limits dead pockets. Breaking surface tension, and feeding the most highly oxygenated water to the biological filter optimizes their efficiency.

You should be weary of any contractor building these systems that can not recite these basic principles because they are fundamental to having a healthy and sustainable ecosystem.

Swim Pond Cost

Generally this will vary from contractor to contractor. We average 200$ per sq ft as of 2024. So for instance a 20′ x 25′ pond is 500 sq ft. This will place the cost around $100,000.

As you may have noticed there is more to the pond than just the area for swimming. An intake bay skimmer, wetland filter, and pump house are included in the design and expand the footprint.

Many people go smaller and create dipping ponds, generally 20′ by 15′ and 3′ deep is a common size accomodation. These will run anywhere from $50,000 to $70,000 depending on access and accompaniments.

The build cost of a swim pond is more than a pool in many cases, but when you take into consideration the value of enjoyment all year round, the limit of chemical exposure, the added gardening benefit, and less general maintenance cost compared to a pool, you are at a net positive.

Swim Pond Maintenance

Initially the pond has to season, meaning it needs to accumulate bacterial colonies before it can become sustainable. This can take anywhere from one to three months depending on the location. We recommend a bacteria auto dosing system to add beneficial bacteria into the system during the warmer months. You will need to replace the bottle of bacteria periodically depending on the size feature.

We recommend weekly, or even daily removal of debris from the skimmer depending on the season. This will help the system remain consistent without having to battle extra nutrient load.

A yearly pump out of the wetland filter as well as the intake bay is recommended in the spring. This is a simple procedure that only takes a solids handling pump and a garden hose to complete. You can find out how to clean out your pond if necessary here.

Depending on how your pond was constructed you might only need to give it a thorough cleaning once every five years.

Cutting back plants inside the pond during the fall is also recommended to reduce excess nutrients being introduced.

Conclusion

For most people we would not recommend constructing a swim pond yourself. Along with the basic principles outlined above there are additional skills needed to construct a properly functioning system that includes properly built rockwork, underliner drains, design, and site constraints.

But with the right expertise you can have a gorgeous, natural body of water perfect for the hot days of summer, and still enjoyable throughout the winter. If you are interested in having a recreational swim pond built by us complete our contact form, include a photo of your space, and we’ll set up a complimentary phone consultation to discuss some options.

Check out our Recreation Pond Packages for dimensions, a list of items used, and pricing.

1. Persicaria amphibia (L.), Water Smartweed.

First on the list is the beautiful Persicaria amphibia (L.), Water Smartweed. This fully aquatic or marginal can be found all over the state. Its long slender leaf structure and gorgeous pink blooms gives it an elegant composure to your pond. A rhizomatous perennial herb, this plant can grow fully submerged, or as a marginal, making this a versatile plant to add to streams, wetlands, or directly into the pond.

2. Veronica Americana, American Brooklime or Speedwell

Veronica Americana, American Brooklime or Speedwell, is a widespread oregon native with a similar appearance to mint. Its violet-blue flowers are sure to be an impressive addition to marginal areas such as streams, pond edges, or wetlands. This plant can also be consumed and is said to be similar to watercress.

3. Potamogeton epihydrus, Ribbon Leafed Pondweed

Potamogeton epihydrus, Ribbon Leafed Pondweed, is a PNW native with similar structure to other pondweed species, except its aquatic leaves are slender and ribbon like similar to valisnaria. Its floating leaves are oblique and remeniscent of common pondweeds in the americas. A fantastic dimensional native will give contrast to lillies and provide cover for small fish and frog species.

4. Carex obnupta, Slough Sedge

Carex obnupta, Slough Sedge, is a western coast sedge with beautiful copper to reddish brown hues in the base that extend to red dotted leaves. Perfect for edges or wet margins, this rhizomous grass can get quite large, up to 3 feet. Great for hiding rockwork, or creating an intimate border.

5. Carex aquitilius, Water Sedge

Carex Aquitilius, Water Sedge, is another large west coast sedge with extremely deep rhizomes, and is better suited for gravelly wetlands. I would discourage planting this along the liner edge because sedges can be known to grow through liner from underneath. Sedges are known for being deep feeders and can remediate phosphate overloads.

6. Juncus oxymeris, Pointed Rush

Juncus oxymeris, Pointed Rush, is a blue-green rush that can grow up to 35 inches. A great cylindrical accent and filler to broad leafed plants, this Rush is a great native alternative to nursery options.

7. Scirpus microcarpus, Small-Fruited Bulrush

Scirpus microcarpus, Small-Fruited Bulrush, is another great native sedge, with long, spreading rhizomes, and thicker leaves. You’ve likely seen this sedge growing along streams and lakes in Oregon. Again I would shy away from planting along the liner, but keep this plant inside the liner inside gravel pockets.

8. Cardamine penduliflora, Wetlands Bittercress

Cardamine penduliflora, Wetlands Bittercress, is a perennial rhizomous flower that is endemic to Oregon. It prefers slow moving marginal areas, and has an extremely delecate stem structure.

9. Downingia elegans, Elegant Downingia

Downingia elegans, Elegant Downingia, is an oregon native, with a variety of color from white to blue to purple. It prefers marginal areas, so I would recommend not covering the crown of the stem with more than 3 inches of water.

10. Potentilla gracilis, Slender Cinquefoil

Potentilla gracilis, Slender Cinquefoil, a member of the rose family this butter yellow flow prefers moist soil, but never to be submerged. It will want wet feet, but nothing over the crown. In full sun it can get 3 feet tall.

11. Ranunculus aquatilis L., Water Buttercup

Ranunculus aquatilis L., Water Buttercup, this fully aquatic native bring so much texture to the pond with its floating leaves and flowers, and also its submerged leaves. Flowers will not grow in moving water, and keep the roots no more than 12″ submerged in a pot. Be careful to not let this plant jump or it can become wild quickly.

12. Saxifraga mertensiana, Mertens’ saxifrage

Saxifraga mertensiana, Mertens’ saxifrage, is a personal favorite of mine to find during hikes. It can be commonly found in moist areas next to streams or growing through moss next to waterfalls. It will not like a full sun area and prefer not to be submerged. Its leaf structure gives so much contrast to other plants it is must have for shady ponds and waterfalls.

13. Lupinus rivularis , Riverbank Lupine

Lupinus rivularis , Riverbank Lupine, is a gorgeous perennial flower that thrives in gravel margins. Wet feet, but never submerged, this flower was cultivated and released along many roadsides until the 1990s. Its howy tall stems produce flowers from white to blue to violet.

14. Caltha palustris, Marsh Marigold

Caltha palustris, Marsh Marigold, is a standard in the pond industry. An early riser in the spring, this plant is a perfect addition to any marginal areas. There are also cultivar varieties with double blooms. Easily found at most pond plant nurseries this is a must have for your native oregon pond plants collection.

15. Ribes bracteosum, Blue Currant

Ribes bracteosum, Blue Currant, is a shrub with an edible berry. Perfect for marginal areas, this perennial also has golden fall color. It has an unmistakeable maple leaf shape and produces long green flowers in the spring. Berries are produced during the summer.

16. Rubus spectabilis, Salmonberry

Rubus spectabilis, Salmonberry, is another shrub with edible fruit. This bramble can get quite large inside of a wetland, so pruning and training is recommended. Another great native edible plant this makes an excellent plant to consider for your marginal areas.

17. Erythranthe cardinalis, Cardinal Monkeyflower

Erythranthe cardinalis, Cardinal Monkeyflower, is a herbaceous perennial with bright red to orange flowers that attract hummingbirds. An excellent marginal plant, this plant can reach up to 3 feet with full sun and is perfect for wetlands.

18. Adiantum aleuticum, Northern Maidenhair Fern

Adiantum aleuticum, Northern Maidenhair Fern, needs almost no introduction. This extremely fickly fern prefers full shade rock crevices around waterfalls. Once it loves a spot, expect beautiful things. An excellent addition to shaded water features this fern has earned my absolute favorite plant of all time award.

If you are looking for assistance in Southern Oregon with your watergarden, contact us

If you are interested in learning more about Native Oregon Pond Plants, or other native oregon flora visit oregonflora.org

Turtles are not an animal I would suggest to anyone and everyone as a pet due to their intensive needs with habitat and diet. If I can dissuade you from owning a turtle I will. I have spent a considerable amount of time rescuing pet turtles from owners who were ill equipped with their care and I can not stress enough the amount of time and labor needed to give them a reasonable environment to thrive.

With that being said it is possible and simple once you understand the basics that are needed to care for these animals. Turtles, especially in captivity, live for a very long time, some cases over 50 years. They need specialized habitat, diet, and are prone to a multitude of illnesses such as shell rot, eye infections, and respiratory infections.

Oregon Native Turtles

Oregon has (2) native species, the western pond turtle and the western painted turtle, which are highly protected by law and are not legally allowed to be sold, purchased, or kept as pets without a special ODFW permit due to their threat level. They are classified as special concern due to their dwindling numbers from urban expansion and predation and competition from non-native invasive species.

For this reason, ODFW has strict rules and classifications for which turtle species can be purchased, sold, or kept in Oregon. I encourage the reader to do their own due diligence in regards to the legality of the turtle they are looking to keep, especially since laws change frequently and my recommendation might not be legal in the future.

Under no circumstances should you keep Red-Eared Sliders or Common Snapping Turtles in Oregon without a permit. They are the two species of turtle that have successfully become invasive and continue to breed in the state. I love red-ears, and have kept them as pets out of state, but as the most aggressive aquatic turtle they are a direct competitor to the states natives and must be kept away. I have seen wild populations in Oregon, namely around city centers in Tigard and Beaverton, and unfortunately they can be easily found in parks and watershed environments nearby.

Before I share my recommendation I must address the circumstances that must be met in order to provide one of these animals a habitat to thrive. These requirements are focused more for the hobbyist who wishes to keep an animal outside in an ornamental or recreational water garden or pond.

Turtle Pond Must Haves

Filtration

Your pond should include adequate filtration and water circulation as the first and foremost concern. Yes, turtles thrive in low quality water conditions in the wild, such as eutrophic lakes and bogs, but with these bodies of water the risk of parasites and disease is increased. It is better, especially for the uninitiated hobbyist, to provide exceptional water quality to mitigate the risk of disease.

Turtles are naturally messy animals and produce a disproportionate amount of nitrogenous waste. Backyard ponds are a closed ecosystem, unlike natural bodies of water which rely on seasonal rain events and groundwater replacement. This is why having a natural ecosystem filtration system to remove nitrogenous waste from the water column is paramount. High ammonia levels can be harmful.

Your circulation pump should not be resting on the bottom of the pond. Not only does this put turtles at risk of harm from impellers, but it also circulates the least oxygenated water through the biological filter, which impedes its function. Turtles can actually process oxygen underwater through small glands near their backends, so providing the highest dissolved oxygen content in the water column is paramount to increasing their health.

Some mechanical filtration such as skimmers can work well retrofitted, but the best form of mechanical filtration that can house a pump would be an intake bay. If you do not know how to build this, reach out and we can assist either in the construction or the direction.

Basking and Construction

Next must have would be the availability of dry basking areas in adequate sunlight. Turtles need a dry place to bask in order to absorb sunlight and completely dry themselves. As a reptile, they depend upon sunlight to help regulate their body temperatures, control metabolism, and to absorb UVB light for regular function. It is important that your basking area does not allow the turtle to dismount into an object like a boulder since this can cause bodily harm.

Captive turtles regularly experience a condition known as shell rot, due to the inability to completely dry themselves during basking periods. Secondary infections regularly occur from shell rot. If your pond location does not recieve full sun as adequate for basking areas you must either move the location of the pond or abandon the project altogether.

In addition to the dry basking area, the interior pond construction underwater must not have any interstitial space between boulders or wood that would cause a turtle to become stuck. Underwater cover is important for turtles to escape from predators and the sun, but you must insure there are no spaces that would cause them to become trapped. They are naturally inquisitive and will undoubtedly find these areas.

Most turtles prefer soft bottoms such as clay or sand, but small gravel works just as fine. When it comes to hibernation, if you do not want to have mud bottoms you can build a soft tunnel using large drain pipe filled with leaf debris or barley straw for the turtle to burrow into. 2′ deep is minimum for this tunnel to escape the frost line. Please research turtle hibernation on your own.

Fencing
(Check out Garden State Tortoise or Greg’s Turtle Haven on YouTube for fencing ideas)

The final must have for any turtle pond is an enclosure fence around the area. You do not need to build a lanai, but a wooden fence that would limit their escape from the area, as well as a predator deterrent is a must have. A 2″ x 12″ board with a 2″ x 6″ lip to limit crawling escape is the minimum needed to secure the animal. Ensure that there is plenty of dry land area that the turtles can dig, since females will need to lay eggs, even if they aren’t fertilized, otherwise they can become eggbound.

The addition of an electric fence wire on the outside to deter predators such as raccoons is preferable as well. It is your responsibility to secure the animals so that they are not able to leave the area. It is unlawful to release non-native and permitted captive native turtles into the wild in Oregon, and this includes poor management practices such as lack of containment.

Oregon Turtle Hobby For Outdoor Ponds

You can view ODFW’s permitted list here.

But, I have gone over this list, excluded the turtles that would not survive the 7-8 grow zones outdoors, and excluded turtles that are not readily available from captive breeders, or are endangered due to poaching for the pet trade.

Razerback Musk Turtle Kinosternon carinatum

Found in Alabama, Arkansas, Louisiana, Mississippi, Oklahoma, Florida, and Texas, these turtles have the ability to survive 7-8 zone winter temperatures which we experience in most of Western Oregon. Sorry Eastern Oregon, but this turtle is not right for you.

Coming in at a 7″ maximum size, this small turtle is easier to care for, creates less waste, and is more aquatic than similar turtles. A carnivore, with a diet of small fish, insects, aquatic invertebrates, crayfish, and snails . They will also occaisionally eat duckweed or elodea. Krill pellets can be a great supplement to the above, but do not rely on them otherwise they will miss out of important nutrients.

Their characteristic ridge on their carapice give them their name, and although they are a musk turtle, the musk smell is not common in captivity. With a common lifespan of 20 years, this can be easily doubled with the right care.

They prefer slow moving water with aquatic vegetation.

An extremely common and widely available captive bred turtle, this species is easily found, so the risk of getting a poached turtle is low.

Oregon law states you cannot purchase a turtle smaller than 4 inches, so you have to find a breeder that can provide a larger animal.

As always I recommend doing your own research on these animals, and to make sure you are equipped with their specialized care including but not limited to their habitat. I can not stress this enough.

I hope this article helps you with determining which type of turtle is best to keep in Oregon.

Happy Turtling!

As the leaves start to change color and the temperature begins to drop, it’s time to prepare your pond for the fall season. Proper fall pond care is essential to ensure that your pond remains healthy and beautiful through the autumn months and into winter. In this article, we’ll discuss some essential maintenance tips to help you get your pond ready for fall in Grants Pass, Medford, Ashland, Roseburg, and everywhere in between!

1. Remove excess debris

Before fall sets in, it’s a good idea to remove any excess debris that may have accumulated in your pond over the summer. Use a pond net to scoop out leaves, twigs, and any other organic matter that could decompose and negatively impact water quality. If you have a lot of oak trees nearby, you will want to check your skimmer daily to make sure you aren’t impeding flow to your pump. This is precisely what the skimmer was designed for so make sure there is nothing covering up the opening to the skimmer. Otherwise all that leaf debris will get water logged and fall into the pond. I do not recommend doing a full on cleaning for your pond during this time. You will increase the chance of adverse water conditions during the winter months which could include diatom growth and string algae growth.

2. Trim and Prune Aquatic Plants

As the days get shorter and cooler, aquatic plants will begin to slow down their growth. It’s a good time to trim back any overgrown aquatic plants to prevent them from taking over your pond. Remove dead or decaying plant material to maintain water clarity and oxygen levels. When trimming down your plants, make sure you cut 6 inches above the root crown. Otherwise they might not make it back next year. Remove any tropicals from the pond once they die, since they will not come back next year. You can cut back water lillies to 3 inches above the crown. We can do this for you. Click here to contact us.

3. Check Your Pond Equipment

Inspect your pond equipment, including pumps, filters, and aeration systems. Ensure that they are in good working condition. Make sure that your aerators are not on the bottom of the pond. This is because you do not want to mix the lowest stratification of water with air temperatures. Once the water temperature is below 50 F you can rinse off the muck and detritus from your biofalls filters. The bacteria and organisms that live in this filter are becoming dormant so there is less of a risk of restarting the ecosystem. It’s also a good time to check for any leaks or damage to your pond liner. Make sure that your pond edges are tight and the slope away from the pond will divert any excess runoff from going into the pond. Once it starts raining it will be harder to fix this issue with the clay mud.

4. Adjust Fish Feeding

The metabolism of pond fish, like koi and goldfish, slows down as the water temperature drops. They go into a type of hibernation called Torpor. Be mindful of this change and adjust your fish feeding accordingly. As a general rule, feed them sparingly with non-protein foods. Once the water temperatures are below 50 F, stop feeding all together. If you do feed during these times the fish can not metabolize the food, and could get extremely sick. Typically they will stop feeding on their own, but it is imperative you do not tempt them.

5. Protect Your Pond from Falling Leaves

Falling leaves can be a nuisance in the fall, as they can quickly accumulate in your pond and create water quality issues. Oak leaves in our area are especially annoying as you probably know. Pine needles are equally exhausting. Consider using a pond net or cover to prevent leaves from entering the water. Regularly clean the net or remove accumulated leaves to maintain its effectiveness. If you would like us to do this for you, please reach out via our contact form here.

6. Add Beneficial Bacteria

Introducing cold water beneficial bacteria into your pond can help break down organic matter and prevent the buildup of sludge during the fall and winter months. These bacteria can be particularly helpful in maintaining water clarity and quality. We recommend installing an auto-doser that automatically puts these treatments into the water for you. Once water temperatures are below 40F we recommend stopping the treatment since the bacteria stop colonizing under this temperature.

7. Prepare for Frost

If you live in an area where frost is common during the fall, you’ll need to take precautions to protect your pond and its inhabitants. Consider installing a pond heater or aerator to keep a small opening in the ice to allow for gas exchange and prevent fish from suffocating. Typically, leaving the waterfall running is good enough. In some cases adding aeration to key areas will help depending on the size of the pond. Our area doesn’t see extreme weather to this extent, but it is always good to be prepared.

8. Plan for Winterizing

Lastly, start planning for the winterization of your pond. This may include removing delicate plants and placing them in a sheltered area, shutting down certain equipment, and insulating any pipes or plumbing to prevent freezing. As long as your pond was designed correctly there is no reason to be worried about freezing. We recommend keeping the waterfall and filters running year round due to the mild winters we receive here. But if you have circulation jets, we recommend shutting them down, detaching the pumps from the check valves, and either leaving the pumps sitting inside the pump vault, or taking them into a frost free location.

9. Winter interest

Since the days are getting shorter, consider installing some lighting into your waterfall. This way you can enjoy the pond from inside the home. We can help with this. Check out our lighting packages here. You can also contact us here.

By following these essential fall pond care tips, you can ensure that your pond remains a vibrant and healthy feature in your garden throughout the autumn season. Proper maintenance now will also make it easier to get your pond up and running smoothly when spring returns. Enjoy the changing seasons and the beauty of your fall pond!

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