As the leaves start to change color and the temperature begins to drop, it’s time to prepare your pond for the fall season. Proper fall pond care is essential to ensure that your pond remains healthy and beautiful through the autumn months and into winter. In this article, we’ll discuss some essential maintenance tips to help you get your pond ready for fall in Grants Pass, Medford, Ashland, Roseburg, and everywhere in between!

1. Remove excess debris

Before fall sets in, it’s a good idea to remove any excess debris that may have accumulated in your pond over the summer. Use a pond net to scoop out leaves, twigs, and any other organic matter that could decompose and negatively impact water quality. If you have a lot of oak trees nearby, you will want to check your skimmer daily to make sure you aren’t impeding flow to your pump. This is precisely what the skimmer was designed for so make sure there is nothing covering up the opening to the skimmer. Otherwise all that leaf debris will get water logged and fall into the pond. I do not recommend doing a full on cleaning for your pond during this time. You will increase the chance of adverse water conditions during the winter months which could include diatom growth and string algae growth.

2. Trim and Prune Aquatic Plants

As the days get shorter and cooler, aquatic plants will begin to slow down their growth. It’s a good time to trim back any overgrown aquatic plants to prevent them from taking over your pond. Remove dead or decaying plant material to maintain water clarity and oxygen levels. When trimming down your plants, make sure you cut 6 inches above the root crown. Otherwise they might not make it back next year. Remove any tropicals from the pond once they die, since they will not come back next year. You can cut back water lillies to 3 inches above the crown. We can do this for you. Click here to contact us.

3. Check Your Pond Equipment

Inspect your pond equipment, including pumps, filters, and aeration systems. Ensure that they are in good working condition. Make sure that your aerators are not on the bottom of the pond. This is because you do not want to mix the lowest stratification of water with air temperatures. Once the water temperature is below 50 F you can rinse off the muck and detritus from your biofalls filters. The bacteria and organisms that live in this filter are becoming dormant so there is less of a risk of restarting the ecosystem. It’s also a good time to check for any leaks or damage to your pond liner. Make sure that your pond edges are tight and the slope away from the pond will divert any excess runoff from going into the pond. Once it starts raining it will be harder to fix this issue with the clay mud.

4. Adjust Fish Feeding

The metabolism of pond fish, like koi and goldfish, slows down as the water temperature drops. They go into a type of hibernation called Torpor. Be mindful of this change and adjust your fish feeding accordingly. As a general rule, feed them sparingly with non-protein foods. Once the water temperatures are below 50 F, stop feeding all together. If you do feed during these times the fish can not metabolize the food, and could get extremely sick. Typically they will stop feeding on their own, but it is imperative you do not tempt them.

5. Protect Your Pond from Falling Leaves

Falling leaves can be a nuisance in the fall, as they can quickly accumulate in your pond and create water quality issues. Oak leaves in our area are especially annoying as you probably know. Pine needles are equally exhausting. Consider using a pond net or cover to prevent leaves from entering the water. Regularly clean the net or remove accumulated leaves to maintain its effectiveness. If you would like us to do this for you, please reach out via our contact form here.

6. Add Beneficial Bacteria

Introducing cold water beneficial bacteria into your pond can help break down organic matter and prevent the buildup of sludge during the fall and winter months. These bacteria can be particularly helpful in maintaining water clarity and quality. We recommend installing an auto-doser that automatically puts these treatments into the water for you. Once water temperatures are below 40F we recommend stopping the treatment since the bacteria stop colonizing under this temperature.

7. Prepare for Frost

If you live in an area where frost is common during the fall, you’ll need to take precautions to protect your pond and its inhabitants. Consider installing a pond heater or aerator to keep a small opening in the ice to allow for gas exchange and prevent fish from suffocating. Typically, leaving the waterfall running is good enough. In some cases adding aeration to key areas will help depending on the size of the pond. Our area doesn’t see extreme weather to this extent, but it is always good to be prepared.

8. Plan for Winterizing

Lastly, start planning for the winterization of your pond. This may include removing delicate plants and placing them in a sheltered area, shutting down certain equipment, and insulating any pipes or plumbing to prevent freezing. As long as your pond was designed correctly there is no reason to be worried about freezing. We recommend keeping the waterfall and filters running year round due to the mild winters we receive here. But if you have circulation jets, we recommend shutting them down, detaching the pumps from the check valves, and either leaving the pumps sitting inside the pump vault, or taking them into a frost free location.

9. Winter interest

Since the days are getting shorter, consider installing some lighting into your waterfall. This way you can enjoy the pond from inside the home. We can help with this. Check out our lighting packages here. You can also contact us here.

By following these essential fall pond care tips, you can ensure that your pond remains a vibrant and healthy feature in your garden throughout the autumn season. Proper maintenance now will also make it easier to get your pond up and running smoothly when spring returns. Enjoy the changing seasons and the beauty of your fall pond!

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We will cover topics like the heat, fish health, algae control, and ways to care for your pond during the dog days of summer.

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FISH HEALTH

First and foremost, if you have fish, koi or goldfish, it is important to know their ideal temperatures. Their optimal water temperature is between 60 degrees F and 75 degrees F. So if you do not have a thermometer I recommend getting one as soon as possible. They are relatively inexpensive. They can also help you determine when you can feed your fish starting in the spring and when to stop in the fall. I recommend feeding after water temperatures are above 55 F.

In the Rogue Valley, we can experience long weeks of 90+ temperatures during the day consistently with long dry spells. Luckily, our nighttime temps are in the low 60s and 50s, so relief is available for your fishy friends. Sometimes these temperature swings can be just as harmful to your fish though.

This is why we do not recommend cleanouts to our fish pond customers during hot summer days. There is too much risk to the fish. And if you are determined to do water changes make sure you are slowly acclimating your fish to your well water so you do not shock them. Temperature differences of 10 degrees can be deadly in some cases, especially with our high ph and hard water.

High fish loads to water volume can also have poor effects on their health. More fish equals more waste, less oxygen, and poor pond health.

I will cover Oxygen and Shade in the next paragraphs.

OXYGEN

The heat can bring stress to your fish. But it isn’t just because of the temperature. Warm water holds less oxygen than colder water. So it is imperative that you have a functioning waterfall or some kind of aeration. Don’t think of the waterfall or aeration as adding in oxygen. Think of it like you are creating more surface area for gas exchange.

At the top of the water nitrogen is escaping, and oxygen is coming into the water. We call this the gas exchange. This is why during the winter time you need to keep a hole open in the ice so that your fish can breath.

Typically with a waterfall and properly sized pump, you will be oxygenating your pond sufficiently. But if you want to supercharge your biological filter, and have a redundancy for your fish, adding in an aerator is great way to improve your pond and oxygen capacity. Depending on your pond depth, you will want to put the aerator on a top shelf close to your skimmer. As long as your pond is 2 feet deep your fish will be fine.

SHADE

Some ponds are in direct sunlight. If your pond gets sun more than 8 hours a day, then you should consider a shade component. Fish can get sun burned! If you do not have a fish cave or hideout then I would seriously consider installing one or adding in a shade component. There are shade cloths, umbrellas, or even plants that can accomplish this.

If your pond is very large, and or deep, then you can probably exclude some of this advice since a larger body of water has a more consistent temperature due to thermal dynamics.

PLANTS

If you read any of my other articles, or have seen my pond builds, then you will know I am a BIG plant guy. Waterlillies are an exceptional plant that will give your pond a lot of shade. And they love the heat. As long as they are properly planted in large pots with adequate soil and fertilized in the spring they will do wonderfully.

Frogbit, water lettuce, and hyacinth are also excellent shade producing plants that will propagate easily. Unfortunately, you have to treat them as annuals since they are tropical plants, and will die once the weather reaches 50 F. Here are some other native plants I recommend.

One thing to remember with plants is that you must have a balance, just like your fish load. Too many plants can also have a negative effect on the oxygen carrying capacity of the water. Plants absorb carbon dioxide and release oxygen during the day. But at night they absorb oxygen. If the weather is too warm, they can deplete your oxygen at night, especially if you have a high fish load. Less oxygen means less bacteria. Less bacteria means more ammonia. And with our high ph water that is almost certain death for your fish.

I recommend a 30% coverage of your pond surface in aquatic plants maximum. There are exceptions to this rule such as having a larger/deeper body of water, and or having a constructed wetland filter with plants.

WATER TREATMENTS

If you are having algae problems do not ever use algicide. Especially in the summer months. Algicide might kill algae, but it consumes a lot of oxygen. It also leaves the dead algae in the pond which feeds the next algae bloom. You need to fight the cause of the problem, not the symptoms. And your expectations for algae should be within an exceptable range. Algae is part of the ecosystem. We want some algae on the rocks and surfaces of the pond, but not in excess, like string algae, or green water.

Algae problems are a symptom of either lack of filtration, improper water circulation, or lack of aeration. I group biological filtration and plant load into the same category. If you have proper biological filtration, then consider adding in more plants. Make sure you continue with your beneficial bacteria treatments a weekly, or even twice weekly basis. If you have proper filtration, check and make sure your pump is circulating the water properly with no dead areas in the pond. Consider adding in an aerator where dead spots occur to help move the water. Learn more about how Ecosystem Ponds work here.

Hopefully this article has helped you understand how to care for your pond in southern oregon during the summer. Please do not hesistate to reach out for help with your pond.

Check out our latest youtube video of a waterfall build into a recreational swim pond!
Waterfall Build

How Often Should a Pond Be Cleaned?

Biannually. Every two years as a minimum you should have your pond drained and cleaned. Possibly sooner if you do not have a skimmer or any biological filtration. Dead organic matter will collect and reduce your water quality over time. Monthly maintenance coupled with proper pond components will give you more time but generally every other year is your best bet. Why you should perform regular maintenance: Seeds of Nature Pond Maintenance Blog Article

How Much Does It Cost To drain And Clean A Pond?

Depends on the company. We charge per square foot with a minimum. Generally you can expect anywhere from $600 to $1500 depending on the size of your pond. Other factors that you should consider other than the size of your pond are when the last time the pond was cleaned, the fish load, overgrown plants, and access to the pond. You can send us a photo of your pond here and we will get back to you with a free online quote.

What Is The Best Time Of Year To Clean Out A Pond?

Early spring is the best time to clean out your pond. Ideally before the water is consistently above 55F. This is because you do not want to restart the beneficial bacterial colonies once they become established since it takes four to six weeks for them to build a colony. We are simulating the natural event of snow melt rushing through the rivers and streams cleaning out debris.

If you’re interested in the science of biomimickry theres no one better than Ed The Pond Professor.

Why Clean A Pond?

Enclosed systems will eventually become clogged with organic material. Whether that is dead and decaying foliage like leaves and pond plants, or it is bacterial colonies that have died during the cold. You have remove this material with a pond cleaning. If you do not, then this organic material will break down and feed excess algae blooms. It can also feed parasitic microfauna and fungus that can harm your plants and fish. Aside from the harmful effects on your pond stock, you want your pond to look great and not be overrun with algae. We go over some common algae types and ways to deal with them in this article.

Also think of a yearly cleanout as a physical. You want to make sure all of the components in your pond are working in their best condition. Preventative maintenance is key to a long lasting and healthy ecosystem. Sometimes you can discover a leak before it occurs. If you already have a leak in your pond you can go through our leak checklist.

Can I Clean My Pond Myself?

Yes. Easily. It is very simple, but I must warn you it can be disgusting. You will get wet. You will smell like pond scum. It might take you a long time. But I hope I can save you some time. Shoot for early spring, when the pond water has been consistenty above 50F. You are simulating a natural event of snow melt cleaning out a river. And doing this right before the bacteria and microfauna have time to recover will ensure you give your pond the best start to the season.

If you do not want to go through the trouble then take a photo of your pond, attach it to our form here and we will get back to you with a quote. We generally begin cleanout season at the end of February, beginning of March.

What You’ll Need For Your Pond Cleaning

– A pressure washer, 6k gas powered would be the max power I suggest.
– A holding tank for fish and water, intex pools, rubbermaid contatainer
– Garden hose with pressure nozzle,
– Fish Net
– Trash Pump, Pool Pump
– Trimming Shears
– 5g Bucket

Steps For Pond Cleaning

1. Set up your holding tank. Make sure the tank is clean so that you do not introduce any foreign contaminants to your fish.

2. Turn off your pond pump. Allow the water to drain from your filter back into your pond. Release any check valves.

3. Put the cleanout pump into the pond. If there is a lot of debris try and put the pump on a shelf to limit the amount of dirty water going into the holding tank. Begin pumping pond water into the holding tank. If the tank becomes full then find an area you can dump the rest of the pond. This water will be liquid gold for a garden.

4. As the pond water is receding hook up your pressure washer. Remove your filter mats and pond pump from your skimmer. Clean the filter mats and pond pump with your hose.

5. Once the pond water is about 8 inches deep begin catching your fish. Be careful while handling the fish. If you must touch the fish with your hands make sure your hands are wet to limit removing their slime coat. Inspect each fish for their health and note anything unusual like lost scales, growths, or white spots.

6. Remove large debris by hand using the 5g bucket. Trim, split, and fertilize any pond plants as you see fit. Check any pond lights to make sure they are all working. Replace lights as needed.

7. Using the pressure washer, start at the top of your stream if applicable and work your way down to the pond. If you have pooling areas, set up the cleanout pump in each pool to remove dirty water in sections. If you have an extra hose and hookup then putting a hose in each pool to help rinse will save you time.

8. Pressure wash the pond starting at the top edge and working your way down to the bottom. Make sure you get in the nooks and crannys of the rocks.

9. Rinse down the pond with the garden hose, top to bottom. Move the cleanout pump from pool to pool, and from shelf to shelf. The goal is to remove dirty water from each area before it can settle to the bottom of the pond. This saves extra work.

10. Once the entire pond is clean, and the water you are rinsing with is clear, you can then remove the cleanout pump. Continue running the hose into the pond.

11. Put the cleanout pump into the holding tank. Begin pumping water into the pond.

12. Transfer the fish back into the pond. Add water treatments such as water conditioners if adding new water.

13. Reinstall filter pads and pond pump to skimmer. Attach check valve.

If you prefer to watch a video how to: Pond Cleanout With Aquascape

And that is it!

A lot of work, but if you do this every spring you will have a happy, healthy ecosystem for the entire year. Your fish might spawn as well. So if you see some white foam at the top of the pond you know the fish are happy. Let us know if you need help with your pond cleaning!

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My Pond Story

Protecting your pond from freezing temperatures

Protecting your pond from freezing temperatures is an essential part of winter pond care in Southern Oregon. If the top of the water in your pond freezes over it can be detrimental to the plants, fish, and other organisms living in the pond. This is because it doesn’t allow gas exchange at the surface of the water.

Oxygen becomes depleted and your fish can suffocate. So to prevent your pond from freezing over, you can use a pond heater, floating de-icer, or use a pond pump to disturb the top level of the water. These devices work by keeping a small area of the pond open and circulating, allowing gases to escape and preventing the water from freezing.

If you use a pond pump make sure the pump is sitting on a shelf and not on the bottom of the pond. It’s important to follow the manufacturer’s instructions when using these devices, and to regularly check on them to make sure they are functioning properly.

Maintaining proper water levels

During colder months evaporation decreases, but freezing temperatures create ice. Ice will form on slower moving areas of fountains and waterfalls. The ice will remove water from the pond much quicker than you think. Also, if the ice forms on the waterfall and begins to reroute the water over the liner, you will have a massive loss in water. It is vital to check the level of the water consistently. Check ice formations as well.

Winterizing your pond equipment

Some people will choose to remove the waterfall pump during the winter and completely close down their feature. In Southern Oregon we rarely have extreme winters where this is necessary. I typically recommend keeping your feature running because aeration from the waterfall is generally all you need to keep a hole in the ice. But if you choose to close down your feature you are going to want to remove the waterfall pump. You should also disengage the check valve.

Place your pump in a bucket of water in a frost free location. This is because keeping the seals wet extends the life of the pump. The check valve keeps water in your plumbing. So if you do not disengage the check valve then your plumbing can crack from frozen water.

Winter Fish Care

Stop feeding your fish once the temperature gets below 50 degrees F.
Fish will begin to hibernate and can not digest food properly. Feeding your fish can be detrimental to their health in cold temperatures.

Adding a fish cave will allow the fish to hibernate out of sight from predators.

Debris

If you are removing the pump you should cover your pond with a net to reduce the amount of leaf debris. Leaves will stain your pond with tannins, add nitrogenous waste, and cause algae problems in the spring time. Tannins aren’t by themselves bad, but they are unsightly to most people.

Also be aware of broken branches falling into the pond. If you have foliage around the pond, then trimming in the fall will eliminate some debris as well.

Overall, caring for your pond in the winter is much easier once you have a basic plan in place. These are all actionable steps to help you navigate the stress of what to do in winter.

If you have a pond in Medford, Grants Pass, Ashland, Roseburg, or Eugene, Oregon, and you need help winterizing or any care please do not hesitate to reach out.

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Here are four steps on how to fix your damaged or leaking waterfall. Consider that every leak is different, so you may need to adjust these steps slightly depending on the specific situation. Even better, you could hire experts to handle your water garden repair more quickly and efficiently.

4 Useful Waterfall Repair Tips

Perform A Static Test

Fill up the pond or basin to its maximum level and turn off the pump for 24 hours. If the basin or pond level recedes then you know the leak is in the pond or basin. If it doesn’t recede then you know the leak is in the plumbing or the waterfall.

Performing a static test is one of the most effective ways to repair an artificial waterfall. Static tests help determine the cause of the problem and can provide a lasting solution.

Check The Edges Of The Liner In Waterfall

Typically low edges in the liner is the biggest culprit, so check the edges along the waterfall for water escaping. You can also check to see if the area is wet to let you know where the leak may be.

When you’re checking the edges of the liner in your waterfall, be sure to look for any cracks or holes. If you find any, be sure to repair them as soon as possible. Also, check the seams where the liner pieces come together. If they seem to be coming apart, you may need to reseal them.

Check The Plumbing

Start by taking a look at all of the connections and make sure they are tight and not leaking. If you have a check valve installed on the pump, open it to see if water is still in the plumbing. If not, then you know the leak is in the plumbing. 

Next, take a look at the rocks and make sure they are not loose or falling apart. It’s important to check the plumbing periodically to make sure everything is in good working order.

Check The Basin

It is important to make sure that the basin is properly installed and maintained in order to avoid any problems or accidents. Wherever the water has receded to in the basin, that is where your leak or leaks are located! You can repair holes in the liner with a liner repair kit, or you might need to replace the liner completely.

Hire Professional Waterfall Leak Repair Services

Be careful when attempting a DIY waterfall leak repair, as it could result in further damage when not done correctly. For a guaranteed thorough job, it’s better to leave it to the professionals. If you live in Grants Pass, Medford, Ashland, OR, Seeds Of Nature Watergardens is your go-to waterfall repair company. 

We pride ourselves on providing the highest customer satisfaction. Our team of experts has the experience needed to leave your waterfall looking as good as new. Contact Seeds Of Nature Watergardens today, and we’ll take care of all your waterfall problems, helping you and your loved ones reconnect with nature.

For DIY advice please refer to the instructions on our maintenance page, halfway down to Leak Repair:
Leak Repair Checklist

Send us an email with a photo of the feature and we will get back to you:
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Do you suspect that your fountain pump is broken? Then you may need an outdoor fountain pump replacement. Continue reading for some advice on how to repair your fountain pump. If by the end you don’t feel ready to fix your fountain pump on your own, that’s okay! Remember, some professionals offer fountain maintenance services and will gladly do all the hard work for you.

3 Tips On How To Repair A Fountain Pump

Clean The Impeller Water Pump

One of the most common reasons for a fountain pump to stop working is because the impeller is clogged. The impeller is responsible for moving water through the pump, so if it becomes clogged, the pump won’t function properly.

To clean the impeller, try removing it from the pump and soak it in vinegar overnight. In the morning, rinse it off with clean water and reattach it to the pump.

Check The Motor

If your fountain pump is still not working after cleaning the impeller, there may be an issue with the motor. Often, motors will burn out due to overuse or age. If this is the case, you’ll need to replace it, which can be a difficult task, so it’s best to consult with a professional before attempting to do it yourself.

Fix Broken Water Pipes

Another common issue that can cause a fountain pump to stop working is a broken or cracked water pipe. If you notice that your pump isn’t working and there’s water leaking from the pipes, then this is likely the culprit.

To fix a broken water pipe, you’ll need to replace the entire pipe. We recommend calling in a professional on the matter, as this can be a costly and time-consuming project.

Hire Professional Fountain Maintenance Services In Medford, Grants Pass, Ashland, OR

If none of the previous actions solve your problem, then you might need to replace your pump. Keep in mind that a DIY outdoor fountain pump replacement could result in further damage when not done carefully. Instead, team up with the experts at Seeds Of Nature Watergardens to get rid of all your fountain pump problems. 

We have years of experience doing fountain pump repairs in Oregon. We’ll help you get your system back up and running quickly. Bring your family and yourself closer to nature by fixing your beautiful fountain today!

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Restoring your water fountain back to its original splendor can be a time-consuming process. If you searched “fountain maintenance near me,” this article is what you need; it’ll take you through some of the most common fountain repair tips and will offer advice on how to carry them out yourself.

So Here Are 4 Fountain Repair Tips You Don’t Want To Miss

1- Check to see whether the pump is on. The water won’t circulate through the fountain if the pump is off, and the fountain will not operate. Check whether the circuit breaker has tripped since this might disrupt the power supply.

2- Check the impeller on the fountain pump by putting a hand on top of the running pump. The impeller is working if you hear a mechanical piece whirring within. If this component isn’t working, it’s probably clogged with dirt. In such a case, remove any debris from the pump and clean it.

3- Fill the fountain to the proper level (this varies depending on the size of your fountain). The hose feeding water up through the pump must be entirely immersed in water for the fountain to operate correctly. Usually, you can solve this by adding water to the central basin. If the pump is making louder sounds than usual or emitting gurgling noises, the water level is most likely the problem.

4- Turn off the fountain and examine the hoses and pump screen for debris. Dirt, leaves, and other objects collect in fountains over time (particularly if they’re outside). The pump becomes clogged with dirt, leaves, and other material. Once the trash is out, the fountain should operate properly again.

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Get Fountain Repair Services Right Away

Seeds Of Nature Watergardens offers residential and commercial water fountain repair services. In this case, the best thing to do is always look for a professional to handle your water garden or another decorative pond to guarantee results.

We offer services in the following areas: Maintenance Services (Water Garden Cleaning Service), Pond Installation Services, Fountain Repair Services, and more. 

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The downside to this great convenience is that they require a fair amount of maintenance to keep them running smoothly and looking good for years. In this post, we’ll go over the different water fountain maintenance tips. 

4 Steps For Good Water Fountain Maintenance

Clean The Pump Regularly 

Cleaning the pump is essential to making sure your water fountain runs smoothly and stays clean. Spend some time cleaning out the inside of the pump with a toothbrush to remove any sediment that has built up over time. When it’s clean, rinse it out with water and let it dry. Be sure to do this at least every three months.

Keep The Pump Immersed In Water

The pump needs to stay fully submerged in fresh water in order for it to function correctly and slowly circulate the water.

Remove The Algae

If you notice algae growing on your fountain, take the time to remove it. Algae grows when water is not circulating in a pump, which can cause problems with how it functions. It also looks ugly! Scrub it away with a toothbrush or soak it in vinegar overnight when you notice algae growing.

Need A Fountain Cleaning Service Near You?

If you prefer a water fountain that doesn’t require much maintenance, Seeds of Nature’s Watergardens is the perfect option. With an easy-cleaning system and easy installation, these fountains are practically worry-free. We offer a lot of styles to choose from so you can find the perfect one for your home or office.

Need help with providing water fountain care? We have water fountain maintenance experts who can assist you every step of the way. 

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